Forum - Briggs & Stratton Racing
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Registered: 07/22/14
Posts: 12
Reply with quote  #1 
What motor mount is the best to use for an LO206? Looking for brands - not concepts. I'm sure some of you out there have had bad mounts and found mounts you like. My mount sucks and want to get a new one.

Registered: 07/08/14
Posts: 4
Reply with quote  #2 

IMHO, Burris makes a good mount, aluminum, with quality machining and good hardware. It has a wide adjustment range, however, I also have a generic-brand copy that allows about a ½” more right offset (critical in some applications). 

We are constantly changing driver/sprockets, so we move it a lot. I have concerns about the threaded mounting holes eventually stripping (I’ve never seen a torque spec). I would like to see someone make a mount using through/captive bolts to eliminate this issue.

Otherwise we're happy with our Burris.


Registered: 08/21/12
Posts: 31
Reply with quote  #3 
Ive been running a Performance manufacturing mount on my sons birel chassis. No problems at all and plenty of adjustment.

Registered: 07/22/14
Posts: 12
Reply with quote  #4 
I went with the Triple T mount from Innovative Karting in Phoenix. Love the mount. All adjustments happen from the top. No more going underneath my kart. It's machined well. Very strong mount. I have a hard time believing that there is a better mount on the market today. I have had zero issues with it.

Registered: 09/30/12
Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #5 
I too was looking for a better mount as what we had were a pain (for us) to achieve the correct chain adjustment with. We had a Burris 541 and what appeared to be a knock-off of the Burris. I did not like that the mount had to be loosened from the chassis rails and slid to another position. This system generally required a couple of trys getting the chain tension correct as the mount would move slightly when tightening the bottom clamps. This may have been due to damaged/worn poweder coating on our chassis(?). The mount we found is an Odenthal OD-ESA4S. The base stays mounted to the chassis and the upper part of the mount is allowed to slide, i only now have to only adjust once. Other benefits are the mount makes alot more contact with the chassis (roughly 1 1/2" vs. 3/4" for the Burris), this allows it to be more stable IMHO. The bottom clamps are also much more robust, don't deflect and also mount up higher inside the rails. It's not cheap, but the grief it saves me is worth the extra cost.

If someone can tell me how to post a picture to this thread, I have one with both mounts side-by-side.


Registered: 05/16/11
Posts: 75
Reply with quote  #6 
Psycoe, What a beautiful engine mount!  What I REALLY like about it is that it provides the engine a solid base under it.

One issue that I really want to point out to everyone and I have alerted many of the engine mount manufacturers is many of them have designs that allow for a HUGE amount of off-set with very little support.  The worst combination is a large offset AND a base plate that has been machined out to 'save' a few ounces.  Not only does this further take away from the stability that the engine has to have it tends to collect oil under the engine as you do oil changes over time.  So first off, your bottom fasteners are sitting in a pool of oil.  As the engine heat cycles and flexes oil is creeps into your threads likely impacting the effectiveness of the loc-tite patch.

The BIGGER issue with offsetting the engine is you take away the necessary stability the engine needs.  Forces from the engine and chassis are amplified and going in one directional plane and the crankshaft is being pulled in a plane parallel to the axle. This is putting a lot of stress on the side cover joint.  This could lead to loss of fastener torque and or even failure over time.

Imagine your car engine only having have of the motor mounts holding it in place.  That is essentially what offsetting the plate does.  Your car would shake itself to death and unlike a car with suspension your engine takes on ever flex or harmonic that comes its way.

Over time we have seen the base of the cylinder actually show a permanent 'twist' when analyzed in our layout center.  

We understand some chassis set struts are welded in place and some have need to run larger seats and therefore clearance is an issue.  I would recommend bending the seat strut or running your clutch inboard.  

The last 'hint',  imagine how much more consistent your fuel metering would be if your engine isn't being hung out on the edge of a diving board bouncing up and down. [smile]

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